Winds cause waves {wave, ocean}|. Wave height and distance increase with wind speed, wind duration, and distance wave has traveled.
Sea bottom near shore slows wave bottom, and top wave part becomes narrow and falls over {breaker}|, where water level becomes less than wave height.
Small swells can superimpose to make big wave {tidal wave}|.
Wave water flows back to ocean along bottom {undertow}|.
Strong winds cause open-water waves {whitecap}| to break.
Outline of Knowledge Database Home Page
Description of Outline of Knowledge Database
Date Modified: 2022.0225